The money she tightly held in her hand was not enough for her ticket. Her plea “But that’s all I have, and I must go now,” did not move the guy behind the counter.
Seeing that she was short by just a few rupees, I offered to pay for her ticket online. She watched the whole process with suspicion. I handed her the ticket. She was about to give me the money but hesitated. She walked away a few steps, showed her ticket to a stranger, apparently asking him to confirm that the ticket was indeed for her destination. Then she walked back to me, gave me the money. “I don’t understand these things. So, I have to be careful.” She was apologetic. I was embarrassed. The bus started late. She had a found a seat where she lay curled up, hugging a small bag. I wondered if it would be presumptuous to wake her up and offer her a meal where the bus was scheduled to stop next, after a couple of hours. I must have dozed off. The driver’s loud voice woke me up. “The engine has failed. Please get down. I will stop the next bus. Please ensure it will take you where you want to go.” As I grabbed my backpack, I looked at the old lady. She was up but appeared unsure about getting down. I explained the situation to her. She waited until another passenger confirmed it. Obviously, I was far from winning her confidence. Or, perhaps, life had robbed her of all confidence in others. Now that we were in a different bus, I noticed that she did not sleep for a long time. She kept nodding off but would wake up with a start every now and then to anxiously check where we had reached. She lay down again when we stopped at a major bus station and the driver announced we would resume journey after 30 minutes. After 45 minutes, the driver was back on and started the engine. He revved it like mad, filling the bus with fumes but it refused to move. “Something is wrong. The steering is also faulty. I can’t take any risk. Please board another bus,” the driver announced not bothering to look back at the passengers. There were loud protests and so he consoled us: “You will get any number of buses from here, going wherever you want to go.” So, there we were, in the third bus, with a long distance to cover yet. I could see that she was determined not to sleep now. Maybe because of all the rattling which was worsened by the condition of the road. There were not many passengers, and the conductor was done with issuing and checking tickets. I moved next to him and struck up a conversation. “You think having to change buses twice is a big deal? Just last month, I was in a bus that had passengers who had to change four buses. Imagine, those many breakdowns within 200 kms," he said. “I am not surprised at all,” he continued. “Do you have any idea about the quality of the spare parts we get? They must be paying a huge price, and someone must be pocketing it, but the buses are not getting any benefit.” Before the conversation took a contentious turn, I tried to insert a positive note. “It is a good thing that they are introducing modern electric, air-conditioned buses now.” He laughed. “Electric? Air-conditioned? Do you know the cost of repairing those buses? Those are just not designed to run on our kind of roads. Maybe you can, but do you think people like her can afford those buses?” He pointed to the old lady who was now dozing, seated and swaying. “Now everyone wants a car, that too a large car. The roads are the same. Always damaged and always jammed. Do you think that is progress?” He smirked. As if on cue, the bus hit what might have been large pothole, veered off the road and came to a stop. This time nobody had to tell us to get down. We were all off the bus in a rush. I ensured the lady got down safely. The conductor asked if everyone was safe and unhurt. He got on the phone, trying to find out if and when another bus would come that way. As we waited, some used their lighter bags as umbrellas to shield from the harsh sun. Then I noticed her shuffling away. She settled down in the shade provided by a big hoarding. She used her bag as a pillow and prepared to sleep, unmindful of the stones and the dirt. She looked as if she was quite used to it. Involuntarily, I looked up at the hoarding. It showed the large face of a leader who had won the recent election. The text around congratulated and appreciated all the services rendered by him for the upliftment of the poor.
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January 2025
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